When I recently embarked on developing a more traditional lasagna, I talked with a few lasagna experts. First up was my friend Maria, who grew up just outside Venice, Italy, and has strong, prideful feelings on cooking traditional Italian food. I knew she’d have a lot to say about lasagna, including advice from her mother, who is a private chef. The most important thing Maria had to say is that “ricotta is a hard no! Lasagna must be made with béchamel sauce — and you should season it with a pinch of nutmeg.” When asked about meat sauce versus bolognese, Maria was adamant about bolognese sauce. Even though it’s a lot of work, she says it makes a more flavorful lasagna. Lastly, she emphasized that a good lasagna starts with high-quality ingredients. This point sounds so simple, but having tested this recipe using a variety of brands, I whole-heartedly agree.