When it gets hurt-your-face-cold outside, I turn to old-fashioned, stick-to-your-ribs recipes that require hours of slow simmering in the oven — the kind that fill your home with amazing smells. The granddaddy of them all? A slow-cooked roast brisket. I’m talking eight hours in the oven, which gives you meat so tender that it falls apart in the process of transferring it from the pan to your plate.