It’s a strange spring, in more ways than one. While parts of the country are experiencing late-season snow, many areas are being blessed with warm, sunshine-filled days. Here in Brooklyn, light jackets are coming off the bench to relieve their heavier counterparts, windows are being cracked open, and trees are beginning to bud. One of the cardinal rules of food writing is don’t lead with the weather, but here I am doing it, in part because I find the weather so affecting and in part because this is one of my favorite times of the year to eat: The mood (especially this year, in these times) is still for comfort, while the array at the market is getting greener and greener and sweeter and sweeter.