XO at its core is an oil infused with dried seafood, salted meat, and aromatics. I like playing around within that framework. XO connoisseurs say that an XO should show off what’s gone into it. You want to see morsels of shrimp or threads of scallop. So you have to take care when drying the seafood, then shredding it properly to retain the texture. Once you start cooking, work through each component in order, not cooking anything too long or at too high heat, or it will all turn to mush.