Nothing beats the thrill of finding designer clothes, vintage linens, or like-new home decor at a thrift store. But even the best secondhand finds have one thing in common: that musty thrift store smell.

Throwing your fabric finds into the washer doesn't guarantee the smell will be removed. Neither does freshening with sprays or perfumed products like dryer sheets. In fact, you can put a lot of work into cleaning the fabric, only to realize it still smells musty.

Experts say you won't successfully remove the odor until you understand what it is. We talked to the pros to learn what that secondhand smell is and how to get rid of it.

• Chris DeArmitt, PhD, is a scientist, author, and the founder and president of Plastics Research Council.
• Kim Romine is a fabric care scientist at Procter & Gamble.
• Tom Ceconi is the president of Heritage Park Laundry Essentials.

What Is the Thrift Store Smell?

The smell isn't a single odor. Rather, (are you ready for this?) it's body oil, sweat, smoke, and cooking smells from thousands of donors that mingle in a warehouse for weeks or months. Some donated items have been stored in damp or poorly ventilated areas, leading to mold or mildew. Now add mothballs and perfume to the mix, and the result is that thrift store smell: an earthy, musty odor that's difficult to shake.

Chris DeArmitt, president of the Plastics Research Council, says fibers act like sponges. "For both airborne and body-derived chemicals, odors sit on the fiber surface, some partition into the fiber, and some bind to oily soils already present on the garment," he says. "That is why the smell can seem to disappear after washing and then return when the fabric warms up, becomes damp, or is worn. Heat, humidity, and body movement can re-release trapped volatile compounds."

When these scents accumulate and blend among the many donated items, they create the scent you know as uniquely "thrifted."

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Why Thrifted Fabrics Hold Odors

Even if an item has been washed, some of these smells remain trapped in the fabric. These compounds can create lingering odors.

The type of fabric plays a major role. Synthetic fibers such as polyester or nylon are prone to holding odors, making them harder to clean. Natural fibers like cotton or linen absorb odors, but tend to release them during the wash cycle due to their structure.

Storage can also trap odor. Older garments might go longer between washes, allowing the odors to settle deeply into the fabric.

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Fragrance Isn't the Answer

You might be tempted to cover that smell. But there's a fundamental difference between masking and removing odors.

If you've ever sprayed a thrifted item with perfume or fabric freshener only to smell that musty scent soon after, you're merely "masking" it. Masking means you've layered a stronger scent over the thrift store smell. It can help for a bit, but that fragrance fades.

Odor removal means breaking down and washing away the molecules that cause the smell. Only when you get to the root of the problem can you finally freshen up the fabric.

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Mistakes to Avoid When Removing Smells

Odor removal requires chemistry, time, water, mechanical action, and the right detergent dose. If the wash is too short, too cold, or overloaded, oils and odors remain in the fabric.

If you want your fabric to finally be rid of the thrift smell, never do these three things, says Kim Romine, a fabric care scientist at Procter & Gamble.

• Skip the pretreatment. To get rid of bad smells, you need to treat the areas that get stinky, including collars, underarms, waistbands, and the groin area.
• Use a heavily scented detergent. You need an enzyme detergent that will break down oils trapped in fabric.
• Overload the washer. Clothes don't get clean when the washing machine is stuffed. Allow room for your items to move freely and to be agitated. A packed washer equals dirty clothes.

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The Best Way to Clean Thrifted Clothes at Home

An effective routine helps you make your thrifted fabrics lovely again. Try this approach from Tom Ceconi, president of Heritage Park Laundry Essentials.

1. Inspect and sort by fabric and care label. (Take "dry clean only" items to a pro.)
2. Air out items in fresh air. Hang individual pieces on hangers and make sure there is space for airflow. Sunlight kills bacteria.
3. Pretreat odors or stains, especially those "high-contact" areas.
4. Wash fabrics in warm water and white vinegar. Do not use detergent or any other additives.
5. Wash fabrics again in warm water with a half cup of baking soda.
6. Wash the items a third time with an enzyme detergent that's designed to remove dirt, stains, grease, and oil.
7. Hang or dry flat. Avoid the dryer because the heat will lock in any lingering smells and make them harder to ultimately remove.