Where to Grow Moth Orchid
Moth orchids grow outdoors only in warm climates, particularly USDA Zones 10–12. In these areas, they can be grown outdoors in warm, humid locations protected from strong winds and direct sunlight.
In cooler regions, moth orchids are excellent indoor plants. They grow best in bright, indirect light and can be grouped with other tropical houseplants such as bromeliads, anthuriums, peace lilies, and African violets.
Before acquiring a new plant, make sure your environment meets its needs. Not every plant will do well in every location.
Moth Orchid Care Tips
Moth orchids are relatively easy to care for, but they are sensitive to overwatering and overfeeding. Keep them in a warm, bright location and adjust care according to their growing conditions.
Light
Moth orchids prefer bright locations protected from direct sunlight.
Medium to bright light from a south- or west-facing window can encourage prolonged flowering. Although they can tolerate lower light, brighter conditions generally produce more flowers.
Protect the plant from strong afternoon sunlight because it can scorch the leaves.
Soil and Water
Use orchid bark or sphagnum moss as the growing medium. Avoid ordinary potting soil because it can retain too much moisture and contribute to root rot.
Water when the bark or moss becomes dry to the touch, generally every 10–14 days.
When watering, allow water to flow thoroughly through the growing medium and out of the drainage holes.
Temperature and Humidity
Moth orchids prefer temperatures between 65°F and 76°F.
They also appreciate humid conditions, with an ideal humidity level of approximately 50–70%.
If indoor air is dry, increase humidity by placing the orchid on a pebble tray with water below the pot or by grouping it with other houseplants.
Fertilizer
Moth orchids benefit from small, regular applications of fertilizer.
During summer, fertilize approximately every 1–2 weeks. During winter, reduce feeding to approximately every 3–4 weeks.
Follow the fertilizer manufacturer's recommended application rate and avoid overfeeding.
Pruning
Pruning is generally unnecessary because old leaves naturally fall as new growth develops.
Remove wilted stems, flowers, or leaves if they do not fall naturally or if they show signs of disease.
Use sharp, sterile pruning shears. Cut the flower stem just above the healthiest node below the lowest wilted flower. Completely dry or brown stems can be trimmed down to the growing medium.
Potting and Repotting
Moth orchids generally need repotting every 1–3 years, primarily to replace deteriorating growing medium rather than because they need a larger pot.
Check the orchid annually for root binding or degrading bark/moss.
Repot after flowering, usually during spring or fall. Choose a pot about the same size or approximately 1 inch larger than the current container.
To repot:
- Remove the orchid carefully from its container.
- Gently separate the roots.
- Remove dead or shriveled roots using sterile shears.
- Add fresh orchid bark or suitable growing medium.
- Position the plant and fill around the roots.
- Water normally after repotting.
Pests and Problems
Improper watering is one of the most common problems with moth orchids.
Overwatering can cause bacterial problems such as brown or black rot. Underwatering can cause dehydration and root loss.
Moth orchids can also develop fungal problems, including leaf spots and foliar blights.
Common pests include:
- Aphids
- Mealybugs
- Thrips
- Spider mites
For early infestations, the plant can be cleaned with a mild peppermint castile-soap-and-water mixture. Insecticidal soap or neem oil may also be used, although care should be taken because these products can potentially damage orchids under certain conditions.
If pests are present, isolate the orchid from other plants until the problem is resolved.
How to Propagate Moth Orchid
One of the easiest methods for home gardeners is propagation through keikis—small plantlets that develop along the flower stem.
To propagate a keiki:
- Allow the keiki to develop until it is approximately 3 inches long.
- Make sure it has developed roots.
- Use a sharp, sterile blade to separate it from the mother plant.
- Plant it in a separate container filled with moistened orchid bark.
- Mist it regularly while it establishes.
Keikis can also be left attached to the mother plant, although they will use some of the plant's resources.
Types of Moth Orchid
'Golden Peoker' Moth Orchid
The 'Golden Peoker' Phalaenopsis is a hybrid with large burgundy-red spots and blotches on white petals, with yellow coloration around the center. It helped establish the harlequin category of moth orchids.
Jupiter Moth Orchid
This Phalaenopsis variety produces spikes of white flowers with a prominent red-pink center.
Dragon's Gold Moth Orchid
Dragon's Gold Phalaenopsis produces spikes of yellow-green flowers and has a compact growth habit with dark-green foliage.
Phalaenopsis schilleriana
Phalaenopsis schilleriana produces fragrant pink flowers and has foliage decorated with silvery marbled patterns.
Phalaenopsis stuartiana
This species produces white, star-shaped flowers with red spots. Its dark-green leaves have silvery markings on the upper surface and burgundy markings underneath.
'Sedona's Maki Dream' Moth Orchid
Phalaenopsis 'Sedona's Maki Dream' produces spikes covered with lavender-pink flowers.
Sogo David Moth Orchid
This Phalaenopsis cultivar produces yellow flowers with pink speckles that become denser toward the centers of the flowers.
'Taisuco Koohdan' Moth Orchid
This Phalaenopsis cultivar produces spikes of large, pure-white flowers.
Y.N. Moth Orchid
This Phalaenopsis selection produces spikes of dark red-purple flowers that are particularly long-lasting.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I stake my moth orchid?
Staking is optional. If you want the flower spike to remain upright, insert a thin bamboo stake before the flowers develop.
When the spike reaches approximately 6–12 inches, secure it gently to the stake using small clips or twist ties.
How do I know if my moth orchid needs water?
Allow the growing medium to become almost completely dry between waterings.
If the bark or moss still feels damp, wait before watering. When watering is needed, thoroughly wet the growing medium and allow excess water to drain completely.
Never allow the orchid to sit in standing water, and avoid leaving water around the crown because this can encourage rot.
Why are the stems of my moth orchid turning yellow?
Yellowing stems can have several causes.
Too much direct sunlight can cause yellowing, particularly when only the side exposed to sunlight is affected. Moving the orchid to a more protected location may help.
If the yellowing stem is soft or mushy, rot may be responsible. Pests can also cause yellowing, so inspect the roots and crown carefully. If rot or pests are confirmed, remove the affected stem.
