With the recent popularity of secondhand style, vintage fabrics have become highly collectible and can be worth surprisingly large amount of money. Whether you're going through grandma's sewing stash or hitting the thrift store, there are a few key varieties to be on the lookout for.

According to appraisers and experts on vintage fabrics, a number of things contribute to a fabric becoming a collectable. "Rarity is always a factor," says antiques specialist Kayleigh Davies. Unusual colorways and short production runs contribute to rarity, and uncut original lengths are prized, since most bolts have been cut up and used. Davies explains that Provenance adds value, as does good condition, because textiles are particularly unforgiving and easy to damage.

Aesthetics play a significant role, too. The vintage fabrics that experts suggest you keep an eye out for were designed decades, even centuries, ago. Yet their designs have an enduring visual quality that has made them into timeless classics. Keep reading to learn which vintage fabric types and makers fetch high amounts in auctions, as well as expert tips to identify valuable fabrics at thrift stores, estate sales, and flea markets.

• Kayleigh Davies is an antiques specialist for the global online auction platform Auctionet and has previously worked as an auctioneer and valuer.
• Sophia C. du Brul, ISA AM, is an accredited member of the International Society of Appraisers and the owner of Sophia's Estate Sales and Appraisals.

Expert Tips for Spotting Valuable Vintage Fabrics

Get familiar with design history: While you don't have to be an expert on vintage fabrics, Davies says it does help to know some of the iconic design styles, as it gives you a starting point when you spot fabric that looks interesting. 

Check the selvedge: The selvedge is the tightly woven, finished edge along the length of the fabric, which Davies says reveals makers' marks, design names, colorway numbers, and registration codes. These are huge clues to a fabric's authenticity and potential value.

Carefully inspect the fabric: Davies recommends holding vintage fabric up to the light. "You can see things like old repairs and moth damage much better against the light." The expert says you shouldn't be afraid of unfolding and smelling vintage fabrics either. "I felt like I was being really weird the first time I sniffed a cushion in a thrift store, but if you've ever encountered fabric that smells like damp or cigarettes, the embarrassment soon leaves," Davies shares.

Look for uncut lengths: A full original bolt or a generous unused length is worth dramatically more than an offcut according to Davies. If you're planning on using it for a specific project, estate sale and appraisal expert Sophia C. du Brul recommends knowing the required yardage for it before you shop. To estimate yardage on a bolt, she shares this tip: "Pick up the bolt and hold it in the center your chest with one hand and then unroll a length with your arm outstretched, paying attention to how many times the bolt turns; that length is about one yard, and if the bolt turned four times and there are 12 layers left, then the bolt has about four yards on it, which is enough fabric for a small chair or a few throw pillows."

Consult a specialist after purchasing: If you buy a piece of vintage fabric, Davies advises that you don't wash it without getting advice from a specialist. "It could strip the value from your piece," she explains.

Vintage Fabrics to Watch For

1. William Morris Patterns

"William Morris' patterns never go out of style—most people today are familiar with Strawberry Thief even though it was designed in 1883," Davies says. The expert shares that the real prize are original block printed Morris & Co. lengths. She notes that these don't include the later Sanderson reissues and recommends you check the selvedge (the finished edge along the length of the fabric), for the maker's mark to ensure it is authentic William Morris fabric.

2. Toile de Jouy

Toile de Jouy, which Davies says translates to "cloth from Jouy", finds its origins in 18th century France and can be very valuable today. "After chintz patterns were introduced to the country from India, makers couldn't get enough and innovated with copperplate printing to produce intricate designs," she says. "But the style is best known today for its pastoral scenes."

The classic print is instantly recognizable and often used in the form of wallcoverings, drapery, bedding, and other decorative textiles. Davies notes that fabric in this style is still being produced today, which means you need to know what you're looking at. "A genuine 18th or early 19th century piece will show the subtle irregularities of copperplate printing, and the cotton will feel noticeably different from modern reproductions," she explains.

3. Vintage Barkcloth

"For someone into midcentury, vintage barkcloth is a great way to get an authentic look," du Brul says. Vintage barkcloth is thick cotton fabric that typically features bold floral and tropical motifs. The cheerful printed fabric became popular post-World War 2 and has become a valuable collectible among lovers of midcentury modern style. If you want to get your hands on some of this vintage fabric, du Brul suggests looking in the right market. "Estate sales in an area full of midcentury homes may have some lurking in a corner," she says.

Additionally, du Brul shares that collectors also look out for African and Southeast Asian barkcloth, which is different from midcentury barkcloth. "African barkcloth is made from the inner bark of the Mutuba fig tree (not cotton) and then is hand-painted; it's a very ancient form of cloth that predates weaving and this art form is still practiced today," the expert explains. She adds that large garments made from this vintage fabric can go for over $1,000.

4. Marimekko

Marimekko is a Finnish brand founded in the early 1950's that is known for bold printed fabrics. Davies shares that it became popular in the United States when Jackie Kennedy wore the brand's dresses during the 1960 presidential campaign. "The bold, simple prints resonate with buyers just as much as they always did, and vintage bolts of fabric are always in demand," Davies notes.

She adds that a single Unikko curtain designed by Maija Isola in the 1960's for Marimekko recently sold at auction for over $600. "Vintage Marimekko is very desirable right now, as is the bright flower printed cotton canvas from old school outlets like Sears—don't be surprised if these fabrics are $20 a yard or more," du Brul says.

5. Liberty of London

"You can't talk about fabric without mentioning Liberty," Davies states. The first Liberty fabrics were printed shortly after the London store's opening in 1875. Liberty is known for their floral prints and Tana Lawn, the brand's signature fabric, is something to look out for according to Davies. "I've seen offcuts of Tana Lawn cottons sell for hundreds, but it's the early pieces that get specialists excited, whether it's a late 19th century dress or early 20th century silks," she shares.

6. Hudson's Bay Blankets

The history that a fabric represents can make it collectible and therefore raise its monetary value. "Like the Hudson's Bay Blanket with its distinctive cream color and stripes and heavy weight," du Brul shares. First made in 1779 in England, the now iconic wool blankets were used as a form of currency for fur trade in Canada. "Good vintage ones from an historic company like Pendleton easily command $300 and up," she says.

7. 1930's Sack Cloth

"A stash of 1930's sack cloth scraps is a real find for quilters," du Brul shares. The expert explains that feed and seed companies sold their seeds in colorful calico sacks which were then washed and turned into clothing and quilts. The Depression era fabrics often featured vibrant patterns, and are valuable even in small quantities. "Finished quilts are very collectable, but many quilters want to recreate those quilts with vintage fabrics so they search for a stash of cut pieces," du Brul says.

8. Scalamandre

A high-end fabric manufacturer like Scalamandre is what du Brul looks for when searching for vintage fabrics. "These luxury fabrics are made to the highest standards with rich colors and fine details," she shares, adding that she always has an eye out for a bit of Scalamandre's Tigre Velvet, a rich and luxurious animal printed fabric first introduced by Franco Scalamandré in the '60s.

Other high-end fabric makers that du Brul suggests searching for include Brunschwig & Fils (Monkey Mayhem is a highly sought-after print), the Venetian 1920's maker Fortuny, and Clarence House, a New York-based fabric maker founded in the 1960's. When it comes to these vintage fabric brands, du Brul says some of their classic fabrics are still being produced, but they can cost hundreds per yard. "So scoring some at a flea market, thrift shop, or an estate sale can be a great way to get an expensive look on a budget," the expert says. As for the vintage fabrics that may be discontinued, the she says it only makes them rare and more valuable.